Back to AquaRite 900 Troubleshooting Guide

Hayward AquaRite 900 No Power: Panel Dead, No LEDs

Technical Guide • Updated November 2024

Quick Summary

  • If the Power LED is off and the display is blank, the AquaRite 900 is not receiving usable power or its internal protection has opened.
  • Start at the breaker and timer that feed the unit and work forward to the control's line terminals.
  • The system has a mini blade fuse on the circuit board that protects the unit from shorts.
  • Wrong voltage configuration, miswired line and load, or a dead transformer or board can all present as "no power."
  • Treat this as live electrical troubleshooting and stop if you are not qualified.

What "No Power" Actually Means on an AquaRite 900

On this system the Power LED indicates that the control board is getting line voltage and has energized its low voltage electronics. When that light is off and the LCD display is blank, the control either has no incoming power, the internal fuse is open, or the core electronics have failed.

Because the system supports both 120 and 240 volt feeds via configuration jumpers, miswiring can leave the unit effectively unpowered even though the timer or breaker is on. The line side must be wired to the correct screw terminals and the bonding and grounding lugs must be used as shown in the wiring diagram.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

Owner-Level Checks

Verify the obvious power sources

  1. Make sure the breaker or disconnect feeding the pool equipment is on and has not tripped.
  2. If the AquaRite is fed from the load side of a mechanical timer, confirm the timer is actually on and the trippers are engaged.
  3. If there is an automation panel, see if it shows any power faults.

Check the main switch and panel

  1. Move the AquaRite main switch between Off, Auto, and Super Chlorinate.
  2. Watch for any flicker of the display or LEDs. If there is absolutely no response, stay in Off and move to deeper checks.

Look for visible damage

  1. With power off at the breaker, open the control door.
  2. Inspect for burn marks, melted plastic, or corrosion on the terminals that would indicate a failure.

If you are not trained to work inside a live electrical cabinet, stop here and hand the job to an electrician or pool tech.

Tech-Level Checks

Safety Warning

With power locked out and verified off, follow these steps. Working on live circuits requires proper training and tools.

Confirm wiring and jumpers

  1. Compare the actual feed (120 or 240 volts) to the wiring diagram and jumper positions on the inside label.
  2. For 120 volt operation the jumpers have to be moved from the factory 240 volt position to the alternate configuration shown in the manual.
  3. Make sure the line conductors are actually on the line terminals, not accidentally on a load set.

Inspect and test the internal fuse

  1. Locate the mini ATO style fuse on the circuit board above the cell connector.
  2. Remove the fuse and check continuity with a meter. Replace it with the same rating if it is open.
  3. If the new fuse blows immediately when power is restored, suspect a shorted board or transformer and stop before repeatedly replacing fuses.

Measure line voltage at the control

  1. Restore power and carefully measure across the line terminals with a multimeter rated for mains work.
  2. Confirm you see the expected voltage (around 120 or 240 volts depending on configuration).
  3. If voltage is present and the fuse is good but the control is still dead, the transformer or main board has likely failed and will need replacement.

Check for loose or corroded connections

  1. Tighten terminal screws to the manufacturer's torque guidelines.
  2. Look for corroded wires or evidence of water ingress that may have damaged the electronics.

Common Parts That Fix This Problem

  • Mini blade fuse with the rating specified on the board label
  • Replacement AquaRite 900 main circuit board if internal electronics have failed
  • Replacement transformer if it is not supplying low voltage even though the fuse and line are good

Do not substitute random fuses or non Hayward boards. If in doubt, use the exact part numbers shown in the manual and on the labels.

Model-Specific Notes

  • The AquaRite 900 ships from the factory set for 240 volt operation. If you are on 120 volts and the jumpers were never moved, the unit will not power correctly.
  • Canadian models require connection to a ground fault protected circuit as called out in the manual.
  • The control is not meant to be a junction box for the pump. The pump should be wired directly to the timer or automation relay, not passed through the AquaRite.

How to Prevent Repeat "No Power" Issues

  • Keep the control mounted in a location with good ventilation and no direct sprinkler spray.
  • Make sure the enclosure door closes fully to keep moisture off the board and fuse.
  • Periodically inspect the wiring and terminals for heat discoloration or corrosion.
  • If you have had repeated fuse failures, find and correct the root cause rather than continuing to replace fuses.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why did the AquaRite lose power during a storm but the breaker never tripped?

Surges and brief interruptions can take out the internal fuse or electronics without tripping the upstream breaker. Check the fuse and inspect for surge damage.

Can I feed the AquaRite from the same breaker as the pump?

Yes, that is the normal arrangement, but follow the manual exactly and wire to the load side of the pump timer or automation relay, not in series with the pump motor.

Can I convert from 120 volts to 240 volts to reduce amperage?

The unit supports either voltage if the jumpers and wiring are changed correctly. This should only be done by someone comfortable reading the wiring diagram and local codes.

The unit comes back on if I tap it. What does that mean?

That usually points to a loose connection, failing relay, or cracked solder joint on the board. It is not normal and should be corrected before it fails completely.

Is it worth repairing a dead board or should I replace it?

In the field you normally replace the board. Component level repair is not supported by the manufacturer and is not practical on site.