Hayward Aqua Rite No Power: Power Light Off and Dead Panel
Quick Summary
- Power LED off means the control is not seeing usable voltage at its input or the internal fuse is open.
- Most common causes are tripped breakers, miswired timer outputs, wrong voltage jumper setting, or a blown 20 A mini fuse.
- Start with line voltage checks at the Aqua Rite terminals, then the fuse, before assuming the PCB is bad.
- Any work on 120/240 V should be treated as pro-level; owners can only do basic visual checks.
What "No Power" Actually Means
When the Power LED is off and the display is blank, the Aqua Rite control is not completing its low-voltage power supply circuit. The manual points to two main checks: correct 120/240 V wiring to the "line" screw terminals and the small 20 A mini automotive-style fuse mounted above the cell connector on the board.
If incoming voltage is missing or incorrect, the board will stay dead. If the fuse is open, you may still have line power on the terminals but nothing will light.
Step-by-Step Troubleshooting
Owner-Level Checks
Confirm pump and timer status
Make sure the filter pump actually runs when the timer should be on. Aqua Rite should be wired to the load side of the same timer, so if the timer is off, the chlorinator is off.
Check breakers and any GFCI devices
- Verify the pool equipment breaker is on.
- Reset any GFCI outlet or breaker in the equipment circuit.
Visual inspection of the Aqua Rite box
- Look for obvious external damage, water entry, or burn marks.
- With power off at the breaker, open the door and look at internal wiring for loose or burned connections.
If the unit still appears dead, the next steps are for someone able to safely test live voltage.
Tech-Level Checks
Verify line voltage at the screw terminals
- Kill power at the breaker, remove the front cover if needed, and expose the power terminal block.
- Restore power and measure voltage across the two hot terminals using a meter:
- Around 240 V for a 240 V installation.
- Around 120 V between hot and neutral for a 120 V installation.
- Compare to the jumper configuration label; the board ships set up for 240 V and must be changed for 120 V service.
- If there is no correct voltage here, the problem is upstream (timer, wiring, breaker).
Check the 20 A mini ATO fuse
- Turn power off at breaker.
- Locate the small blade fuse above the cell connector on the PCB.
- Gently remove it and check continuity with a meter or swap in a known-good 20 A mini automotive fuse.
- If the new fuse blows immediately when power is restored, you likely have a shorted board or component; do not keep feeding fuses.
Inspect PCB for visible damage
- With power off, look for darkened areas, cracked solder joints, or bulged components.
- Any obvious damage combined with no power and a good fuse is a strong sign the board needs replacement.
Common Parts That Fix This Problem
20 A mini ATO fuse
Protects the board from shorts. If it was a one-time surge, replacement may restore operation. Repeated failures point to deeper faults.
Control PCB
If wiring and fuse are good and there is correct voltage on the input terminals but no life, the PCB is usually replaced as a complete assembly.
Upstream equipment
Timeclocks, relays, or contactors feeding the Aqua Rite can also fail and leave the chlorinator dead.
Model-Specific Notes
- Aqua Rite can run on 120 or 240 V, but the internal jumpers must match the supply. It ships set for 240 V by default.
- Canadian models must be on a Class A GFCI-protected circuit, which adds one more potential trip point.
How To Prevent No Power Issues
- Keep the control box mounted vertically with knockouts down and airflow around the sides so it can shed heat.
- Ensure drip loops on conduits and tight fittings to keep water out.
- Periodically inspect terminals for tightness and corrosion, especially in coastal or humid environments.
- Avoid overloading the equipment circuit with add-ons tied to the same breaker.
⚠️ Safety Warning
PCB replacement, high-voltage wiring, and any work that could expose you to 120/240 V should not be done by an unlicensed person. Always secure power at the breaker, verify it is actually off with a meter, and follow local codes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my Aqua Rite only power up sometimes?
Intermittent power usually points to a failing timeclock contact, loose terminal, or weak breaker rather than the chlorinator itself.
Can I run the Aqua Rite off a plug and cord?
The manual expects hard-wired 120/240 V according to local code. A cord and plug makes bonding and GFCI protection trickier and is generally not recommended.
My fuse keeps blowing. Should I use a larger fuse?
No. The 20 A rating is intentional. Increasing it can allow board damage or fire. Find and fix the root cause instead.
The Power light is on, but nothing else works. Is that still a power problem?
If Power is lit, low-voltage supply is present; at that point focus on flow, salt, temperature, and other indicators instead.
Can a lightning strike kill the board with no visible damage?
Yes. Surge events often take out electronics without burns. Look at the whole system and consider surge protection.