Hayward Aqua Rite Troubleshooting Guide: Lights, Messages, and Common Problems
The Hayward Aqua Rite Electronic Chlorine Generator is a salt system that turns dissolved salt in the pool into free chlorine, then recycles it over and over. It handles sanitation for most residential pools up to about 40,000 gallons, as long as salt and basic water chemistry are kept in range.
This guide is written for working pool techs and advanced DIY owners who are standing at the pad in front of an Aqua Rite box or hanging cell. The focus is simple: what the lights and messages actually mean, how to make sense of the display, and where to look first when the system is not generating.
Quick Reference: Aqua Rite Lights and Common Symptoms
Power LED Off
Meaning: No incoming power to the control or internal fuse open.
Next step: Check breaker, timer output, and the 20 A mini ATO fuse on the board.
View detailed guide →"No Flow" LED On
Meaning: Flow switch does not see enough water movement; unit is shut off. Flashing means short startup delay, solid means active fault.
Next step: Confirm pump is running, filter clean, valves open, and flow switch installed correctly.
View detailed guide →"Check Salt" LED
Meaning: Flashing means salt is low but system still trying to generate. Solid means salt critically low; system shut down.
Next step: Verify salt with a separate test before adding, then correct slowly.
View detailed guide →"High Salt" LED On
Meaning: Reported salinity above system's upper limit; output shut off.
Next step: Compare display to independent salt test and decide whether to dilute or suspect reading issue.
View detailed guide →"Inspect Cell" LED
Meaning: Time-based service reminder or efficiency drop detected.
Next step: Pull and inspect cell for scale, clean if needed, then reset the timer.
View detailed guide →No Chlorine Output
Meaning: System not producing; could be lockout, low temperature, salt issue, or low output setting.
Next step: Check all other LEDs, output percentage, and diagnostic readings.
View detailed guide →Cold Water Lockout
Meaning: Water temperature out of operating range, typically below 50-60°F.
Next step: Confirm temperature on diagnostics and decide if you need generation in cold water.
View detailed guide →Incorrect Salt Reading
Meaning: Display shows obviously wrong salt level compared to independent test.
Next step: Compare average vs instant salinity, clean cell, verify cell type setting.
View detailed guide →PCB Fault Code
Meaning: Display shows "-Pcb-" with multiple LEDs lit; internal board fault detected.
Next step: Rule out power issues; if fault persists, board replacement likely needed.
View detailed guide →Cell Type / Automation Issues
Meaning: Wrong cell type selected or automation system not communicating properly.
Next step: Verify cell type matches installed cell; check automation wiring and settings.
View detailed guide →How the Hayward Aqua Rite Works (Quick Overview)
At a basic level, Aqua Rite passes pool water through an electrolytic cell where a low voltage DC current converts sodium chloride into free chlorine. The control board measures voltage, current, temperature, and flow status to decide when to run and when to shut down.
Key components:
- Control box: Contains the PCB, main switch, output knob, diagnostic button, and indicator LEDs. Also houses a 20 A mini blade fuse and power terminals.
- Turbo Cell: Installed in return line with unions. Different models (T-CELL-3, 9, 15) must be selected in menu for proper operation.
- Flow switch: Separate tee assembly with paddle and cable. Requires at least 12 inches of straight pipe before it.
- Diagnostics: Button scrolls through temperature, voltage, current, output %, instant salinity, product ID, software version, and cell type.
The unit only generates chlorine when:
- It has power and the Power LED is on
- Pump is running and flow switch is satisfied
- Salt and water temperature are within range
- Main switch is in Auto or Super Chlorinate
- Output percentage is above zero and automation is not holding it off
Critical water chemistry:
- Salt: 2700-3400 ppm (target 3200 ppm)
- Stabilizer (cyanuric acid): 60-80 ppm for outdoor pools
- pH, alkalinity, calcium: Within standard APSP ranges to prevent corrosion or scaling
Most Common Problems
1. No Power at the Box
- Breaker off or timer not feeding voltage to the unit
- Miswired line/load or wrong voltage selection at the jumpers
- Internal 20 A mini fuse open
- Failed PCB
2. "No Flow" Light Stuck On
- Pump off, low speed, or air-bound system
- Dirty filter or closed valves causing poor flow
- Less than 12 inches of straight pipe before switch or switch installed backwards
- Broken or unplugged flow switch
3. "Check Salt" or "High Salt" Light
- Actual low or high salt level from backwashing, drain/fill, or over-dosing
- Recent salt addition not yet fully mixed
- Very cold water affecting reading
- Cell or board reading incorrectly
4. "Inspect Cell" Light On
- Time-based reminder with normal operation
- Scale buildup due to high calcium and unbalanced water
- Cell aged near end of life and cannot reach target current
5. Pool Has Little or No Chlorine
- Output percentage set too low or pump run time too short
- Low stabilizer so UV is burning off chlorine
- Salt or temperature issues causing intermittent shutdowns
- Correct chemistry but scaled or worn cell
Basic Diagnostic Checklist
Verify safe power: Confirm breaker is on and the Aqua Rite is wired to the load side of the pump timer. Check that the Power LED is lit.
Confirm flow and hydraulics: Pump on, filter pressure reasonable, valves open to the pool. At least 12 inches of straight pipe before the flow switch and the arrow pointing in the direction of flow.
Check all front panel LEDs: Note Power, Generating, No Flow, Check Salt, High Salt, Inspect Cell, Super Chlorinate, and Remotely Controlled. Use the quick reference above to choose the right deep dive.
Run the diagnostic scroll: Press the diagnostic button repeatedly to read water temperature, cell voltage, cell current, output percentage, instant salinity, etc. Record the values before cycling power.
Water chemistry sanity check: Salt, stabilizer, pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness roughly in APSP ranges. If balance is badly off, correct that before blaming the equipment.
Visual inspection: Look for obvious corrosion, overheated terminals, rodent damage in the box, and visible scale or debris in the cell.
When To Call A Professional
Stop and involve a qualified pro when:
- You need to open or rewire the incoming power feed, change voltage jumpers, or work inside the house panel
- The 20 A fuse has blown more than once or blows again immediately after replacement
- The PCB shows "-Pcb-" or has visible burn marks, bulged components, or melted traces
- You are not comfortable handling muriatic acid for cell cleaning or adjusting water chemistry
- The system is under warranty and you suspect a board or cell failure
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